Database/Skin Conditioning/Astaxanthin
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Astaxanthin natural?

It depends. Carotenoid pigment either extracted from Haematococcus algae or built from petrochemical synthons.

INCI nameAstaxanthin
CAS472-61-7
FormulaC40H52O4 · 596.8 Da
FunctionSkin Conditioning
FeedstockCosmetic-grade astaxanthin is predominantly extracted from Haematococcus pluvialis…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
algal extractionHaematococcus pluvialis microalgae1.00majority of cosmetic-grade ingredient supply
chemical synthesispetrochemical synthons (Wittig-type C15 route)0.00minority in cosmetics; dominant in feed-grade astaxanthin
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Route A: algal extraction, whole molecule natural = 1.0. Route B: total chemical synthesis = 0.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Cosmetic-grade astaxanthin is predominantly extracted from Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae and marketed on its natural origin. A synthetic petrochemical route exists and dominates lower-cost aquaculture-feed-grade material.

In plain English

A deep-red antioxidant pigment, most often extracted from microalgae, though a lab-made version also exists. Used in skincare for its antioxidant, skin-conditioning properties.

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Structure

2D structure of Astaxanthin

(6S)-6-hydroxy-3-[(1E,3E,5E,7E,9E,11E,13E,15E,17E)-18-[(4S)-4-hydroxy-2,6,6-trimethyl-3-oxocyclohexen-1-yl]-3,7,12,16-tetramethyloctadeca-1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17-nonaenyl]-2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-2-en-1-one

PubChem CID 5281224 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Astaxanthin. PubChem CID 5281224. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3ASTAXANTHIN. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4ASTAXANTHIN. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ASTAXANTHIN