Database/Antioxidant/Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate natural?

It depends. Ascorbic acid is natural and the maleic-acid linker is petrochemical; the result depends on whether natural or synthetic tocopherol is used as the vitamin E source.

INCI nameAscorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate
CAS320616-16-8
FormulaC39H58O10 · 686.9 Da
FunctionAntioxidant · Emollient
FeedstockThis antioxidant links vitamin C (from glucose) and…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
natural d-alpha-tocopherolvegetable-oil tocopherol + glucose-derived ascorbic acid + petrochemical maleic acid0.88majority, typical for antioxidant-complex marketing
synthetic dl-alpha-tocopherolsynthetic tocopherol + glucose-derived ascorbic acid + petrochemical maleic acid0.25minority
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Ascorbic acid 175.1 Da (natural) + tocopherol 429.7 Da (route-dependent) + maleic acid linker 82.0 Da (petrochemical); natural-tocopherol route 604.8/686.9=0.88, synthetic-tocopherol route 175.1/686.9=0.25.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

This antioxidant links vitamin C (from glucose) and vitamin E via a petrochemical maleic-acid bridge. The vitamin E can be natural, vegetable-oil-derived d-alpha-tocopherol or synthetic dl-alpha-tocopherol depending on supplier.

In plain English

An antioxidant combining vitamin C, vitamin E and a synthetic linking acid, used to protect skincare formulas and skin from oxidative damage. The vitamin E source can vary by supplier.

Natural alternatives with the same function

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Structure

2D structure of Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate

4-O-[(2R)-2-[(1S)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3-hydroxy-5-oxo-2H-furan-4-yl] 1-O-[(2R)-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-[(4R,8R)-4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl]-3,4-dihydrochromen-6-yl] (Z)-but-2-enedioate

PubChem CID 71587695 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate. PubChem CID 71587695. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3ASCORBYL TOCOPHERYL MALEATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4ASCORBYL TOCOPHERYL MALEATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ASCORBYL%20TOCOPHERYL%20MALEATE