How we scored it
Ascorbic acid C6H8O6 (176.1, fermentation, natural) + isostearic acid C18H36O2 (284.5, oleochemical) - H2O (18.0) = 442.6 (matches given MW); both fragments natural => 1.0
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Ascorbyl Isostearate is made by esterifying fermentation-derived ascorbic acid with isostearic acid, an oleochemical branched fatty acid from natural fats/oils. Both building blocks are natural-origin regardless of supplier.
In plain English
A skin-conditioning ester made by combining Vitamin C with isostearic acid, a branched fatty acid. Both building blocks come from natural sugar and plant/animal fat feedstocks.
CosIng definition: Ascorbyl Isostearate is the ester of Ascorbic Acid and isostearic acid
Structure
[(2S)-2-[(2R)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-oxo-2H-furan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Ascorbyl Isostearate. PubChem CID 54718851. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3ASCORBYL ISOSTEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4ASCORBYL ISOSTEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ASCORBYL%20ISOSTEARATE