Database/Humectant/Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Acetyl Octapeptide-3 natural?

Mostly. The amino-acid peptide backbone is fermentation/protein-hydrolysate derived; only the small N-terminal acetyl cap from acetic anhydride is petrochemical.

INCI nameAcetyl Octapeptide-3
CAS868844-74-0
FormulaC41H70N16O16S · 1075.2 Da
FunctionHumectant · Skin Conditioning
FeedstockSynthesised from amino acids (fermentation or protein-hydrolysate derived)…

How we scored it

8-residue amino-acid peptide, N-acetylated; acetyl cap ~42Da petrochemical vs peptide backbone ~1050-1100Da → ~0.96.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Synthesised from amino acids (fermentation or protein-hydrolysate derived) by peptide synthesis, then acetylated at the N-terminus with acetic anhydride. Reagents and resins leave no product mass.

In plain English

A small peptide of 8 amino acids with an acetyl cap, used to help smooth the look of expression lines. Built from amino acids and capped with a small synthetic acetyl group.

CosIng definition: Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is the reaction product of acetic acid and Octapeptide-3

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Structure

2D structure of Acetyl Octapeptide-3

(4S)-4-acetamido-5-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-5-amino-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-amino-3-carboxy-1-oxopropan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxopropan-2-yl]amino]-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-1,5-dioxopentan-2-yl]amino]-4-methylsulfanyl-1-oxobutan-2-yl]amino]-4-carboxy-1-oxobutan-2-yl]amino]-5-oxopentanoic acid

PubChem CID 76283482 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Acetyl Octapeptide-3. PubChem CID 76283482. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3ACETYL OCTAPEPTIDE-3. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4ACETYL OCTAPEPTIDE-3. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ACETYL%20OCTAPEPTIDE-3