How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Petrochemical benzoic acid esterified with synthetic C12–15 oxo alcohols. Grades made with coconut C12–14 alcohols exist and would score about 0.6; they are labelled C12-14 or C12-15 with a supplier declaration.
The industrial synthesis of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate involves two main components: the C12-15 alkyl alcohol and benzoic acid. The C12-15 alkyl alcohol is typically produced through the oligomerization of ethylene to form alpha-olefins, which are then hydroformylated (oxo process) to aldehydes and subsequently hydrogenated to the desired linear or branched alcohols. This process yields a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths predominantly between 12 and 15.
Benzoic acid is commercially synthesized primarily through the liquid-phase oxidation of toluene. This reaction is usually carried out using air or oxygen in the presence of a metal catalyst, such as cobalt or manganese salts, at elevated temperatures (around 140-160 °C) and pressures. The oxidation of toluene yields benzoic acid, which is then purified through crystallization or distillation.
The final step is the esterification of the C12-15 alkyl alcohol with benzoic acid. This reaction is typically catalyzed by a strong acid, such as sulfuric acid or p-toluenesulfonic acid. The reaction is carried out under reflux conditions, often with azeotropic removal of water to drive the equilibrium towards ester formation. Temperatures can range from 100-150 °C depending on the specific catalyst and conditions used.
Following the esterification, the crude product is neutralized to remove the acid catalyst and unreacted benzoic acid. Purification steps commonly include washing with water and alkali solutions, followed by distillation under vacuum to remove any residual alcohol, water, and byproducts, yielding a clear, colorless liquid ester.
In plain English
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a synthetic ingredient commonly found in many cosmetic and personal care products. It's primarily used to make the skin feel smooth and soft, acting as an emollient. It also helps to dissolve other ingredients in the formulation, making it a useful solvent.
This ingredient is made through a chemical process that starts with components derived from petroleum. These components are then reacted together under specific conditions to create the final ester. Because its origins are entirely from petrochemical sources, it is classified as having a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 0.0 according to ISO 16128 standards, meaning it is not derived from natural or renewable sources.
CosIng definition: Benzoic acid, C12-15 alkyl esters
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References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=C12-15%20ALKYL%20BENZOATE