100% Renewable

Natural Origin Index (ISO 16128): 1

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Category of Ingredient: Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning Agent, Soothing Agent, Anti-inflammatory active

Chemical Structure:

Description of Synthesis and Manufacture:

Camellia Sinensis Extract is produced entirely from the leaves of the tea plant, a perennial evergreen shrub cultivated agriculturally, rendering the feedstock 100% renewable. The defining characteristic of green tea, as opposed to black or oolong, determines the initial processing step: freshly harvested leaves must undergo an immediate thermal treatment, typically steaming or pan-firing. This rapid heating denatures endogenous enzymes, specifically polyphenol oxidase, preventing the enzymatic oxidation (often mislabeled as “fermentation”) of catechins into theaflavins and thearubigins. This preservation step ensures the high retention of monomeric flavan-3-ols (catechins), particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), which are responsible for the extract’s potent antioxidant activity.

Following this stabilization and subsequent drying, the leaves undergo solid-liquid extraction to isolate the bioactive phytochemicals for cosmetic use. Industrial methods such as percolation or maceration are employed using polar solvents appropriate for the desired final formulation; water, glycerin, or aqueous ethanol are most common. The solvent penetrates the plant cellular matrix, dissolving constituents including polyphenols, methylxanthines (caffeine), and amino acids (L-theanine). The resulting crude liquor is filtered to remove insoluble plant matter (cellulose, lignin).

Finally, the filtered extract is often concentrated. Solvents like ethanol or water are removed via evaporation under reduced pressure (vacuum distillation) to minimize thermal degradation of the active compounds. The final product may be supplied as a concentrated liquid in a carrier solvent (like glycerin or propanediol) or spray-dried into a standardized powder form.

In layman’s terms: The manufacturing of Green Tea extract is essentially making an industrial-strength, highly concentrated cup of tea. Unlike black tea leaves which are allowed to turn brown after picking, green tea leaves are quickly heated right after harvest. This stops them from oxidizing (like an apple turning brown after you bite it), locking in the beneficial antioxidants. These dried leaves are then soaked in liquids like water, alcohol, or glycerin to pull out the active ingredients. Finally, most of that liquid is evaporated away, leaving behind a super-potent concentrate for skincare products.+1

References:

1. Graham, H. N. (1992). Green tea composition, consumption, and polyphenol chemistry. Preventive Medicine, 21(3), 334-350.
2. Pouillot, A. et al. (2011). Natural Antioxidants: A Review of Current Use in Cosmetic Formulas. In Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications.
3. ISO 16128-2:2017. Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products — Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products. International Organization for Standardization.
4. Cremasco, M. (2018). Extraction Processes in the Food and Bioproducts Industries. CRC Press.