How we scored it
Where it comes from
Dominant feedstock is corn or tapioca starch, enzymatically converted to trehalose via maltooligosyltrehalose synthase/trehalohydrolase bioprocess. No petrochemical alternative route is used commercially.
The industrial production of trehalose predominantly relies on enzymatic processes that convert starch into trehalose. A common method involves a two-enzyme system. First, starch is treated with a debranching enzyme (e.g., pullulanase) to yield linear oligosaccharides. Subsequently, these linear oligosaccharides are acted upon by maltooligosyltrehalose synthase (MTSase), which rearranges the $\alpha$-1,4 glycosidic linkage to an $\alpha$, $\alpha$-1,1 glycosidic linkage, forming trehalose. This enzyme is often derived from microorganisms like Thermococcus litoralis.
Another enzymatic route utilizes maltose as a substrate. Maltose is first converted to maltose-1-phosphate by maltose phosphorylase, and then trehalose-6-phosphate is formed by trehalose-6-phosphate synthase. Finally, trehalose-6-phosphate is dephosphorylated by trehalose-6-phosphate phosphatase to yield trehalose. This pathway also utilizes enzymes derived from microbial sources.
Regardless of the specific enzymatic pathway, the process typically involves fermentation or bioconversion steps followed by rigorous purification. Purification often includes filtration, ion exchange chromatography, activated carbon treatment, and crystallization to obtain high-purity trehalose suitable for cosmetic and food applications. The reaction conditions are generally mild, occurring at moderate temperatures and pH values optimized for enzyme activity.
In plain English
Trehalose is a natural sugar found in various plants, fungi, and bacteria, known for its remarkable ability to protect cells and proteins from damage caused by dehydration, heat, and cold. In cosmetics, it acts as a powerful humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture, helping to keep your skin hydrated and supple. Its protective properties also contribute to skin conditioning and can help shield the skin from environmental stressors.
Structure
(2R,3S,4S,5R,6R)-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-[(2R,3R,4S,5S,6R)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxane-3,4,5-triol
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Trehalose. PubChem CID 7427. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3TREHALOSE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4TREHALOSE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=TREHALOSE