Why the score varies
This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.
| Route | Feedstock | NOI | Share | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Polygonum cuspidatum extraction | Japanese knotweed root | 1.00 | Majority | Natural origin |
| Yeast fermentation | Sugar | 1.00 | Growing | Natural origin |
| Chemical synthesis | Petrochemical aromatics | 0.00 | Minority | Fully synthetic |
How we scored it
Where it comes from
Dominant route: solvent extraction of Japanese knotweed root. Alternatives: engineered yeast fermentation (Evolva) or petrochemical Wittig synthesis.
The industrial synthesis of Resveratrol (3,5,4'-trihydroxy-trans-stilbene) commonly employs a multi-step process starting from readily available petrochemical feedstocks. A prevalent route involves the Wittig reaction or a related olefination strategy. For instance, 3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, derived from petrochemical sources, can be reacted with a phosphonium ylide generated from 4-methoxybenzyl bromide (also petrochemical-derived). This condensation reaction, often carried out in the presence of a strong base like sodium hydride or potassium tert-butoxide in an aprotic solvent such as tetrahydrofuran (THF) or dimethylformamide (DMF) at moderate temperatures (e.g., 20-80 °C), yields a protected stilbene intermediate.
Following the olefination, a demethylation step is crucial to reveal the hydroxyl groups. This is typically achieved using strong Lewis acids such as boron tribromide (BBr3) in an inert solvent like dichloromethane (DCM) at low temperatures (e.g., -78 °C to room temperature). Alternatively, other demethylating agents like hydrobromic acid (HBr) or pyridine hydrochloride can be employed under specific conditions. The reaction mixture is then quenched, and the crude Resveratrol is isolated.
Purification is a critical stage to obtain cosmetic-grade Resveratrol. This usually involves a series of steps including extraction, crystallization, and chromatography. Recrystallization from suitable solvent systems (e.g., ethanol/water mixtures) is commonly used to remove impurities and achieve the desired purity. Techniques like high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) may be employed for final polishing and quality control to ensure the absence of residual solvents, reagents, and byproducts. The overall process yields the trans-isomer of Resveratrol, which is the biologically active form.
In plain English
Resveratrol is a powerful antioxidant found naturally in some plants, like grapes, berries, and peanuts. In cosmetics, it's prized for its ability to help protect the skin from damage caused by environmental stressors and free radicals, which contribute to premature aging. It's often included in anti-aging serums and creams to promote a more youthful and radiant complexion.
While Resveratrol can be extracted from natural sources, the vast majority used in the cosmetic industry is produced through chemical synthesis. This manufacturing process starts with basic chemical building blocks derived from petroleum. These are then carefully transformed through a series of chemical reactions, similar to how many pharmaceuticals are made, to create pure Resveratrol. This synthetic route ensures a consistent, high-quality supply that is readily available for cosmetic formulations.
Natural alternatives with the same function
A stabilised, water-soluble form of vitamin C used as an antioxidant and humectant in skincare. It is made…
Acacia Catechu Wood Extract 100% natural originAn extract of the heartwood of the black catechu tree, rich in plant polyphenols such as catechin. It…
Acer Palmatum Leaf Extract 100% natural originA plant extract from Japanese maple leaves, valued as an antioxidant. It's produced by simple extraction from the…
Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract 100% natural originAn extract made from yarrow flowers, a plant long used in traditional herbal preparations. Used to help condition…
Adenosine 100% natural originAdenosine is a naturally occurring compound found in all living cells, playing a vital role in energy transfer…
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract 100% natural originAn extract from the horse chestnut tree, used to soothe and protect skin and tighten its surface feel.…
Structure
5-[(E)-2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)ethenyl]benzene-1,3-diol
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Resveratrol. PubChem CID 445154. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3RESVERATROL. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4RESVERATROL. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=RESVERATROL