Database/Emulsifier/PEG-100 Stearate
Mostly petroleum · ISO 16128

Is PEG-100 Stearate natural?

Mostly not. Palm stearic acid (284 Da) is esterified onto PEG-100 (4405 Da of petrochemical ethylene oxide), giving 284/4690 = 0.06.

INCI namePEG-100 Stearate
CAS9004-99-3
FunctionEmulsifier · Surfactant
FeedstockPalm-derived stearic acid esterified with polyethylene glycol made…

How we scored it

Giving 284/4690 = 0.06.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Palm-derived stearic acid esterified with polyethylene glycol made from petrochemical ethylene oxide.

PEG-100 Stearate is an ester formed by the reaction of polyethylene glycol (PEG) with stearic acid. The '100' in the name is the average number of ethylene oxide units in the chain, a polyethylene glycol of about 4,400 g/mol. The synthesis involves an esterification reaction between the hydroxyl end-groups of PEG and the carboxyl group of stearic acid.

This reaction is typically carried out under elevated temperatures, often in the range of 150-200°C, and may require a catalyst to facilitate the esterification. Common catalysts include acidic catalysts like sulfuric acid or p-toluenesulfonic acid, or basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. The reaction is usually performed under vacuum or with a stream of inert gas to remove the water byproduct, driving the equilibrium towards ester formation.

Following the esterification, the crude PEG-100 Stearate undergoes purification steps to remove unreacted starting materials, catalyst residues, and any byproducts. Purification methods can include neutralization of the catalyst, washing, filtration, and sometimes distillation or crystallization, depending on the desired purity and physical form of the final product. The final product is typically a waxy solid or flake.

In plain English

PEG-100 Stearate is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics to help mix oil and water-based ingredients, making it an effective emulsifier. Think of it like a bridge that allows oil and water to blend smoothly in products like lotions, creams, and conditioners, preventing them from separating.

It's made by combining two components: polyethylene glycol (PEG) and stearic acid. Polyethylene glycol is a water-soluble polymer made from petroleum-derived ethylene oxide, while stearic acid is a fatty acid from vegetable oils or animal fats. The glycol chain is by far the heavier part, so only about 6% of it is natural origin. The process involves chemically linking these two ingredients together, often at high temperatures, and then purifying the result to ensure it's safe and effective for use in your beauty products.

CosIng definition: Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), .alpha.-(1-oxooctadecyl)-.omega.-hydroxy- (100 mol EO average molar ratio)

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2PEG-100 STEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3PEG-100 STEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=PEG-100%20STEARATE